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Looking for new spots to try? During Dining Month, Lori Fredrich is dishing out must-tries in 20 different dining categories, from brunch to BBQ and everything in between. Here's what she's recommended so far!
Milwaukee has far to go when it comes to culinary representation from the diverse set of countries so often unfairly homogenized by terms like "Middle Eastern" or "Mediterranean." Fortunately, recent years have brought an increasing buffet of regional specialties from countries including Syria, Palestine, Lebanon and Iran; and I have high hopes that more will follow.
In the meantime, here are five spots that offer a delicious peek at the regionally distinctive cuisines often disguised by the use of more generic nomenclature.
Lebnani House
5051 S. 27th St., (414) 488-8033
lebnanihouseinc.com
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No matter how often I dine there, the fare at Lebnani house strikes me as a delicious journey waiting to be taken. From a bright, modern fatoush salad dappled with pomegranate to a far-from-traditional hummus trio, every dish offers both a nod to tradition and a bit of something new.
I'd recommend making your first trip with friends and trying as many items as you can. Explore the housemade flatbreads, including the flavorful beef filet bil ajin topped with thin slices of beautifully seasoned beef filet and olive oil.
Indulge in their flavorful char-grilled beef kebabs and likely the best kafta I've eaten in the city. And if you love seafood, be sure to order the delectably fresh head-on prawns, which are char-grilled and served with a flavorful garlic lemon sauce that begs to be sopped up with fresh, housemade flatbread.
If you've already made your acquaintance, I'd encourage you to return and try something new. For me, a recent visit led me to try their qallayet bandoura bil lahmeh, a dish of tender beef sauteed in richly flavored tomato sauce with onion, garlic, chilies, pine nuts and parsley. It’s excellent eaten with their warm flatbread and grilled halloumi cheese.
Mediterranean Cuisine
753 N. Water St., (920) 306-3799
mediterraneancuisinemke.com
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If you've not yet paid a visit to Mediterranean Cuisine, the unassuming Turkish oasis that opened its doors late this summer Downtown, add it to your list. And plan to visit with friends.
After all, you'll want to order platters of tender meats (the adana kebabs are divine), citrusy stuffed grape leaves, silky slightly smoky baba ghanouj and Turkish tabbouleh, flavored with not only the usual suspects (bulgar and parsley), but tomato and chilies.
I haven't yet saved room for the pistachio or walnut baklava. But next time I'll be tempted to get some to take home with me.
Pita Palace
789 W. Layton Ave.. (414) 988-8100
pitapalacerestaurant.com
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At Pita Palace you’ll find staples like falafel, kebabs and shawarma sandwiches. But you'll also find memorable starters like foul mudamas, a dish with origins in Egypt that features a tasty puree of mashed, boiled grassy-flavored fava beans enhanced by bright lemon, crushed garlic and cumin. There are also comforting options such as the sandwich-like arayes, warm flatbreads stuffed with seasoned meat or cheese which are common street food favorites in spots like Lebanon.
When it comes to entrees, I'm partial to their shish tawook, chicken marinated with yogurt, citrus and plenty of garlic. But if you happen to visit on a Friday try their special, Jordanian mansaf. It’s composed of lamb cooked in a fermented yogurt sauce and served with rice or bulgur. And, if you have a sweet tooth, be sure to order the harrisa (not to be mistaken for the North African chile paste, harissa), a dessert featuring tender cake made with semolina flour and soaked with flavorful syrup.
Taqwa’s Bakery & Restaurant
4651 S. 27th St., Greenfield, (414) 539-6878
taqwasbakery.com
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There’s a feast of dishes to savor at Taqwa’s, which celebrates dishes from climes including Jordan and Palestine. Stand-outs include signature entrees like dawalee (grape leaves stuffed with seasoned meat and rice) served with roasted chicken; and the sawani kufta, featuring beautifully seasoned ground beef patties that are charbroiled and served in guests’ choice of tahini or tomato sauce (I'm partial to the tahini).
Be sure to try the freshly baked manakish (Palestinian taboun bread with toppings); I love the cheese and za'atar. The tender house-baked fatayer (hand pies) stuffed with spinach, onions and sumac are also delicious.
Since Taqwa, the owner, is known for her bakery, don’t leave without ordering something from the list of her freshly baked sweets (both the maamoul and warbat are outstanding).
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
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