No matter the time of year, the delicious tradition of the Friday night fish fry is always popular around these parts.

But what makes up a great fish fry? It starts with high-quality fish that’s been hand-breaded or battered on premise; but it also extends to the accompaniments, including fresh crisp cole slaw.

It’s growing harder and harder to find them; but my ideal fish fry also includes housemade potato pancakes (frozen potato patties don’t cut it) made with nicely seasoned shredded potatoes that are crisped to perfection. A close second might be a good house-made potato salad, a crispy-skinned baked potato or (in a pinch) a good batch of thin, crispy fries. I’m also delighted when I can find a hand-muddled (!) Old Fashioned to enjoy alongside. It's a shame how challenging it can be to find an exceptional one these days.

And now, after all that, here are five spots that are well worth a try!

Maxie's

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6732 W. Fairview Ave., (414) 292-3969
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Been a while since you've been to Maxie's? Head to this Milwaukee staple on Fridays for beer-battered haddock served up with creamy coleslaw, fries, house-made tartar sauce and cornbread. 

The fish is well prepared with a nice crispy exterior that isn't overly heavy (or greasy) and doesn't obscure the haddock's sweet, flavorful flesh. The accompanying waffle fries are crisp and lightly seasoned with cajun seasoning. Meanwhile, the cornbread is sweet and delicious with the accompanying orange honey butter!

Pro tip:  Get there early and you can start off your meal with Maxie's Happy Hour.  It's one of the happiest with $1 freshly shucked oysters, $9 apps and $1 off drinks (including their excellent Old Fashioned).

North Avenue Grill

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7225 W. North Ave., (414) 453-7225
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I enjoy North Avenue Grill a great deal. I like the bustle of the dining room during the breakfast rush, the smell of toast and coffee wafting through the air. At lunch, it’s among the best West Side spots to go for a big, hearty burger. But it’s also a great spot to visit for an excellent fish fry.

Options include the guest's choice of beer-battered cod; battered or pan-fried lake perch; beer battered, pan-fried or blackened walleye; battered bluegill or The Platter featuring walleye, lake perch and bluegill. Each fish fry is served with the guest’s choice of potato (French fries, potato pancake, baked potato), coleslaw, tartar sauce and lemon.

The cod, which is served three pieces to a plate, is exceptional with a light and crisp batter that’s not unlike a well-fried beer-batter funnel cake. Meanwhile, potato pancakes are large, nicely flavored and crisp, measuring at least five or six inches across. They are composed primarily of shredded potato, with just enough batter to bind everything together. 

Note: If you like New England-style clam chowder, North Avenue Grill’s is worth your time. It’s creamy and rich, but not ghastly and thick like so many Midwestern versions. The creamy base is flavored with onion, celery, bay and thyme; and it’s stocked with an ample portion of chopped clams and large pieces of chopped potato.

Ricardo’s Pizza

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5627 Broad St., Greendale, (414) 421-1980
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Ricardo's might be best known for its pizza, but if you haven't tried their Friday night fish fry you are missing out. Options include breaded North American lake perch, breaded cod, baked cod  and a shrimp dinner. Each meal comes with a choice of potato (French fries, homemade potato pancakes, seasoned wedges or sweet potato fries), applesauce, coleslaw and salted rye bread.

The perch dinner is a highlight, featuring a hearty serving of lightly breaded perch. The seasoning is flavorful and the fish is crisp on the exterior with a lovely tender texture on the interior. Better yet, the flavorful breading doesn't overpower the delicate flavor of the fish.

It’s worthwhile to mention that Ricardo’s coleslaw is fresh, light and almost salad-like with a flavorful sweet and sour dressing. It's nice alternative to the typical creamy variety. The salted rye was also well worth eating, rather than just an obligatory afterthought.

Steny's Tavern & Grill

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800 S. 2nd St., (414) 672-7139
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If you’re looking for a quiet spot to enjoy a conversational dinner with friends, Steny’s is probably not your spot. But if you like a lively environment with a fun, friendly vibe, step right up. Even if you arrive relatively early on a Friday evening, you’ll likely find that the bar and dining room are bustling with folks, many of whom are likely to be chowing down on the Steny’s fish fry.

Steny’s offerings include beer battered or pan-fried Icelandic cod, pan-fried or deep-fried lake perch. Each dinner is served with coleslaw, rye bread and your choice of side (including potato pancakes).

Von Trier

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2235 N. Farwell Ave., (414) 272-1775
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If you are looking for a local fish fry that delivers, complete with a charming old-world atmosphere, head to Von Trier where the vibe is always cordial and the German-inspired menu offers up a taste of the Old World, plus a very good fish fry.

Their Bitburger Pilsner-battered cod is excellent. The three-piece portion includes large pieces of flaky tender fish enveloped by light crisp batter that tasted appropriately of beer and possessed a beautifully browned exterior. And yes, they also have housemade potato pancakes, served in the classic fashion with sour cream or applesauce.

If you treasure a well-made, hand-muddled old fashioned, this is among the best places in town to order one. There are no mixes behind the bar, just sugar, bitters and a bit of elbow grease for the muddlin’.