On July 14, OnMilwaukee broke the news that La Perla would close after more than 20 years of service, begging the question: what would become of the space that housed the long-time Walker's Point staple?
And, as of early last week, the fate of the La Perla space was still uncertain. An anonymous source had indicated that Hamburger Mary's had an interest in moving to the new space, but was bound by a lease at its current location at 2130 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.
When The Business Journal broke the news that Phoenix Burger LLC, owners of the Bay View building currently housing Hamburger Mary's, had purchased the La Perla building the (still unconfirmed) news seemed more likely.
Although our contact at Hamburger Mary's was unavailable for comment today, it's apparent that plans have moved forward. The restaurant has filed a "change of location" application for its liquor license with the city of Milwaukee, indicating that a move to 734 S. 5th St. is imminent.
How appropriate
The move is a logical one. La Perla offers up a large dining area with multi-faceted patio spaces that will offer the restaurant plenty of room for HamBingo, Mary-oke and drag shows, as well as casual dining and malingering at the bar.
Maybe more importantly, the location is an appropriate move for the trailblazing burger joint.
In an era when Walker's Point, long recognized as a safe haven for the LGBT community, is zooming along the road toward gentrification Hamburger Mary's will provide a fitting and persistent reminder of the neighborhood's recent past.
The original Hamburger Mary's was established in 1972 in the SoMa neighborhood of San Francisco. The restaurant whose theme was "an open-air bar and grill for open-minded people" became a cult favorite, offering up a space for LGBT clientele (along with celebrities and others) to let their hair down and enjoy great burgers in an environment that was as diverse as the city of San Francisco itself. Years later, the concept was franchised, giving birth to 14 locations around the U.S.
Watch OnMilwaukee for additional details as they develop.
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
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