A small shrine is tucked into a corner of the BelAir Cantina. Rising against a wall is a collection of potted cactus, Mexican votive candles, a framed representation of the Blessed Virgin and photos of unidentified Latino-looking folks. It could be a charming decorating touch for a restaurant that riffs on Mexican street food. But looming over the shrine at its peak is a large oak barrel. We are welcome to worship at the altar of tequila.