{image1} Chef Michael Feker's newest and highly anticipated venue opened quietly several weeks back in the location that once housed Milwaukee's failed Ed Debevic's, although you'd never know it with the amazing transformation that has made this space Los Mitos (780 N. Jefferson St.).
The décor of the new restaurant is stunning, with a mixture of deep reds, browns and other earthy tones, accessorized with fun, funky metal faux greenery and beautifully spun rugs. White tablecloths rule at Los Mitos, giving it an upscale feel, and you won't find better service in town than we had at our recent lunch.
Los Mitos ("The Myths" in Spanish) already draws a large lunch crowd, filling both front and back rooms with eager diners ready to try a mix of Latin-California cuisine. So, perhaps we expected too much of the restaurant due to Feker's pristine track record in Los Angeles and the highly successful Il Mito, but we were disappointed with our lunch, which, for two people with entrées, desserts, one soda and a cup of tea, came to an astounding $44.
Los Mitos' menu is what our server referred to as a "diverse" mixture of foodstuffs. The eclectic menu includes soups, salads, grilled tortas (Latin style sandwiches), a Black Angus burger, pizzas, pastas and a mesquite grill section. For dinner, Los Mitos diners can also select from empanadas and an expanded grill selection.
At our visit, we were first presented with a basket of cold hard rolls, which were mediocre at best. They were served with a plate of tomatillo sauce and olive oil. The tomatillo sauce carried a peppery spiciness, but somehow also was sweet and bitter at the same time, and most unpleasant. We noted the diners around us also skipped the dipping sauce.
Our server was meticulous and fairly conversant with the menu, and suggested that we try the special of the day, a seafood torta made with scallops, whitefish and crabmeat ($9.95). My dining companion decided to try this entrée and chose the creamy mushroom soup as his included starter. The soup was excellent. It was fully puréed and creamy with wonderful flavors and texture. Unfortunately, the seafood torte was unpalatable. The sandwich smelled fishy, and the textures and flavors were unpleasant.
I opted for the Colorado Lamb Shank with eggplant, peppers, Vidalia onions and sherry ($14.95). I chose the house salad to start, which was a decidedly plain plate of baby greens with a few pieces of radicchio and a pedestrian Caesar dressing. The Lamb, which was inexplicably listed in the grilled section of the menu, appeared to have been braised and was atop a giant mound of roasted rosemary yams, which seemed an odd accompaniment for this entrée. The lamb itself was fatty, and while tender, had very little flavor. I took the meat off the shank and mixed it into the yams, which were exceptional, and were able to carry the otherwise nondescript entrée.
Desserts at Los Mitos were hit or miss. The chocolate mousse cake ($5.95) was superb, with a lovely light mocha flavoring throughout the moist dessert, and a cinnamon sprinkled dab of real whipped cream. A poached pear ($5.95) had not been thoroughly cooked, and was still crunchy and served cold.
I'm sure as the restaurant becomes accustomed to its new digs, the menu will be better planned thematically, and the foodstuffs will improve. In the interim, I plan to give Los Mitos growing time before visiting again.
Los Mitos is open for lunch and dinner Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 4-10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 4-11 p.m.; and Saturday, 4 p.m.-midnight. Prices range from $9.95 to $24.95. Some vegetarian options available.
