By OnMilwaukee Staff Writers   Published Mar 07, 2000 at 2:54 PM

The Dancing Ganesha
1692 N. Van Buren
(414) 220-0202
Open daily
Wheelchair accessible

Decor

Sleek dual-level dining room is yet another of designer Gary Wolfe's thumbprints on Milwaukee's restaurant landscape. The handsome bar, soft washed walls, light wooden tables and eclectic blend of music coming from the sound system provide a thoroughly contemporary environment for enjoying some almost mystical, ancient Indian flavors coming from chef/owner Usha Bedi's kitchen.

A multicultural amalgam of clientele, east side daters, families and friends all in a hurry to get their hands on the curry. Whether all dressed up or in jeans, everyone is here for the food.

While the absence of the traditional Tandoor oven omnipresent in Indian restaurants is sure to raise more than an eyebrow or two, the Dancing Ganesha kitchen produces myriad flavors of the entire subcontinent. Curries are exquisite, The Veggie Tahli plate is a trio of daily vegetarian specialties that both compliment and contrast in flavor and texture. The Pan-Fried Tilapia, dredged in pickling spice, gives a new dimension to the Friday Fish Fry (the restaurant's signature dish) that is not to be missed. Mango Cheesecake is also well done. Quite simply, in my opinion it is the best of the city's ever-growing list of Indian places and one of our favorite restaurants.

Moderate.

A great selection of microbrews, a smattering of California wine and make sure to have Ami shake up a saffron or ginger martini.