It's been some time since we checked in with Cempazuchi (which means "marigold"), the southern Mexican restaurant on Brady Street that remains a Milwaukee favorite. If there was any doubt about its popularity, they were laid to rest when we visited at almost 9 p.m. on a recent Wednesday night. Most of the restaurant's tables were full and hungry folks kept coming through the door.
Even with the hustle and bustle about the place, we were promptly seated by the hostess and our waiter quickly appeared with menus, water, a run-down of the evening's special -- enchiladas in mole ($10.95) -- and Topopos, chips and that deliciously different salsa.
We ordered a Negro Modelo dark beer and an Aqua Azul margarita ($7) -- Porfidio Plata, Blue Curacao, fresh squeezed lime juice, shaken tableside -- and perused the menu.
After much deliberation, we decided on the enchiladas special filled with cheese and onion (different meat fillings were also an option) and Manchamantel ($15.95), a grilled chicken breast served atop pineapple rice and covered in a sweet and sour mole with pears, apples, plantains and sweet potatoes.
{INSERT_RELATED}But first, we enjoyed our antojitos -- appetizers. First there was the sinful Queso Fundido ($5.95), a Mexican fondue of white cheese with mushrooms and roasted poblanos, and four earthy tortillas for dipping or stuffing. Although delicious, the cheese cools quickly and becomes stringy, so it's best consumed fast!
Then we tucked into Tlacoyo Zapotec ($5.95), organic blue cornmeal patties with black beans. On top is a sort of salad of shredded lettuce, tomatoes, guacamole and chunks of avocado. This unusual dish was thoroughly enjoyable, but so filling that by the time our entrees arrived, we were nearly full.
But we didn't let that stop us enjoying two fine dishes. The Manchamantel, based as it is on fruit, was very sweet (more so than sour) and the pineapple was a delightful counterpoint to the firm dryness of the rice.
The enchiladas special comprised two long, slim enchiladas covered in an extremely rich mole sauce with strong chocolate flavors, augmented by a large portion of cilantro-spiced rice and a compote of chick peas, broccoli and red beans.
A clean dining room -- charming decorated with vibrant earth tones and Mexican art, photos and objects -- and attentive service added to a pleasureable experience.
It's nice to see that this Milwaukee dining highlight is maintaining its high standards. If you haven't sampled Cempazuchi's delights yet, hurry over.
Cempazuchi, open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner, is located at 1205 E. Brady St. Call them at (414) 291-5233 or visit them online at www.cempazuchi.com.
Born in Brooklyn, N.Y., where he lived until he was 17, Bobby received his BA-Mass Communications from UWM in 1989 and has lived in Walker's Point, Bay View, Enderis Park, South Milwaukee and on the East Side.
He has published three non-fiction books in Italy – including one about an event in Milwaukee history, which was published in the U.S. in autumn 2010. Four more books, all about Milwaukee, have been published by The History Press.
With his most recent band, The Yell Leaders, Bobby released four LPs and had a songs featured in episodes of TV's "Party of Five" and "Dawson's Creek," and films in Japan, South America and the U.S. The Yell Leaders were named the best unsigned band in their region by VH-1 as part of its Rock Across America 1998 Tour. Most recently, the band contributed tracks to a UK vinyl/CD tribute to the Redskins and collaborated on a track with Italian novelist Enrico Remmert.
He's produced three installments of the "OMCD" series of local music compilations for OnMilwaukee.com and in 2007 produced a CD of Italian music and poetry.
In 2005, he was awarded the City of Asti's (Italy) Journalism Prize for his work focusing on that area. He has also won awards from the Milwaukee Press Club.
He has be heard on 88Nine Radio Milwaukee talking about his "Urban Spelunking" series of stories, in that station's most popular podcast.
