Carini's La Conca d'Oro
3468 N. Oakland Ave.
(414) 963-9623
Hours: Tues.-Sun.
Vegetarian lunch buffet:
Tues.-Fri., 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Fresh just-off-the-boat seafood with an Italian accent from four guys (also just off the boat) with Italian accents is what's in store for you inside the doors of Carini's La Conca d'Oro. The name translates to the "conch of gold," which best describes the sunset view of their homeland Sicily, and it appears that the family has struck gold with their highly successful restaurant.

Indeed, the restaurant is the realization of the American dream for chef/owner Peter Carini who, along with his three brothers, gave up the life of fishing Sicilian waters to set sail for a new life in America. The end result is a nice story where the bond of family translates into some exceptional seafood and a cacophony of broken English coming from the tiny kitchen.

It's a cozy upscale version of the archetypal red and white checkered tablecloth kind of place. Two separate dining rooms and a large bar are decorated with seagoing artifacts that come from the family's fishing heritage.

Did someone say Italian? No one quite knows what to expect when you let these four guys loose in the kitchen at the same time. The menu is loaded with almost two dozen pasta dishes and the Carini brothers are quite adept in using their noodle to fill up the plates.

Obviously, with fishnets on the wall one would first to choose to set anchor on the seafood portion of the menu, and the daily specials offer what came in fresh that day. Tuna, swordfish and salmon are the mainstays, and all react well to the assault of garlic, olive oil and bread crumbs that seem to be the favorite method of preparation. Swordfish Spiedini is a variation of the traditional beef version. Conca'd'Oro is the restaurant's signature dish. An ocean of shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams and fish is simmered in a hearty marinara and married to a pan full of linguini. There are a number of veal, beef and poultry items that fill out the menu. The linguini with eggplant is our favorite vegetarian dish, and you can also find Peter's sauces and dressings available at area markets. Carini's La Conca d'Oro is a diamond in the rough and one of the city's most underrated restaurants.

Located on Oakland Ave. near UWM, the restaurant is a magnet for a cross-section of society. Young and old sit by side by side, all with a little sauce on their face.

A full bar dominates the main dining room, and there's a nice selection of Italian wine.

Moderate.